Friday, February 24, 2006

Serekunda - Gunjur (GAM) : in Africa's Jamaica

Serekunda
N 13°25.173' W 016°42.925'
If something characterizes this trip it is the element of surprise. With the somewhat unpleasant and teadious experience on entry into Senegal still on our minds we braced ourselves for the Gambian border. Surprise, surprise the border was more than pleasant and we entered Gambia with overcharged batteries. And we needed all the energy we could to deal with the next surprise after crossing the Gambia River by ferry. 180 km of potholes towards Banjul on the south side of the river. Imagine an ant crossing a piece of Emmentaler which has more holes than cheese and you have half the picture. About to turn back after 30 km, we met a young man on what in comparison to ours seemed like a tiny motorbike with two passengers. The northern route was very dusty he said and gave us the courage to continue. "Just try, just try" he said with conviction and a deep acceptance of the circumstances. "Nangka, Nangka" (slowly, slowly) was his clue, gave us a big smile and puttered off down the road making us feel almost obliged to follow his example. We really got to appreciate the short doses of continuous tar stretches and the otherwise very peaceful 5 hrs it took us. We saw maybe a dozen cars during that time; everyone else it seemed travels on the northern side od the river. We dodged the potholes into the night and were rewarded with 30 km of smooth tar to wind down from a tough days travel. We went straight to Sukuta Camp near Serekunda/Banjul, the signs for which we had already seen in Morocco! After an ice cold beer and a snack we were out for the count. Gambians are very laid back, even in the capital Banjul which boasts only one traffic light - appropriately symbolic of the slow moving traffic.

Gunjur
N 13°08.347' W 016°46.287'
Again we avoided the touristy coast south of Banjul and headed to Gunjur close to the Senegalese border. It was worth the effort to find Rastakunda camp 1 km south of the Gunjur fishing village. We were the only guests of Sabatin and Omar who were rebuilding the place as it had decayed during Sabatin's years of absence. With a view of the ocean through the palm trees, fresh fish every day for dinner, endless tranquility, solar-powered reggae tunes and incredible hospitality which turned into more than friendship had us trapped for a week. It demonstrated well that electricity, running water and other ammenities are no prerequisite for peace and tranquility. And the tranquility seemed to follow us once we were back on the devoid tarmac; no cars, no holes - a glide through hot air!

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